#36 - Jan 2020 - Garden Stuff - © Sandy Lang - slang@xtra.co.nz
CUTTINGS January/February: Mid/late summer. Hot, windy, dry…
HCC water rules: One unattended hose (sprinkler, irrigation system etc) every other day, 6-8am and 7-9pm. A hand-held hose anytime.
•I say to avoid evening watering. Wet plants overnight - disease.
Free tree chip: Mulch under trees to supress weed growth. To hold in soil water. To keep soil cool (day) and warm (night).
Cuttings: If on your summer holidays you see a friend’s pot plant or garden plant you fancy, it’s easy to take a stem cutting. •Keep it till you get home; •Sealed in a plastic bag (so it doesn't dry); •Out of the sun (so it doesn't cook).
Then plant it. It’ll soon grows roots and you’ll get an identical plant (a clone; same genes). All forestry pines and many garden-centre plants are raised from cuttings. But will your cutting grow roots?
Physiology: Growing shoots send hormonal signals down saying ‘we need roots’ and growing roots send hormonal signals up saying ‘we need leaves’. These two hormone flows ensure a balance between roots and shoots. A rootless shoot is desperate to grow roots…!
Rooting success depends on: •Species, •Time of year, •Stem age and •Method.
•Species - 100% success with hydrangeas. 80% success with grapes. Other species are less easy, so take several cuttings.
•Time - Early spring is best - but anytime will do…
•Stem age -Take a bit of stem about 8-12 months old (Older, and dormant buds don’t grow. Younger, and the stem hasn’t enough energy reserves).
•Method - You want a ‘3-node-cutting’. With sharp secateurs cut a length of stem with three nodes.
top node><internode><middle node><internode><bottom node
•Cut away half the leaf blade(s) at the top node (to conserve water).
•Cut away the leaf blades at the middle and bottom nodes (but leave the leaf stalks).
•There will be a dormant bud in the axil of each leaf stalk - don’t damage these buds.
•Plant your 3-node-cutting (the right way up) in a pot of moist potting mix. The top node in the air, the middle node just below the soil surface and the bottom node under the soil.
•After a few weeks, the dormant buds will break at the top and/or middle nodes and roots will grow from the middle and/or bottom nodes.
BUT: Your cutting will be very vulnerable to drying out until it grows roots.
•Put a plastic bag over the pot, sealed to the pot with a rubber band.
•Keep the soil moist but not standing in water.
•Place in bright light by a south window, but not in direct sun.
More? Google NCSU propagation ___________________________________
CUTTINGS January/February: Mid/late summer. Hot, windy, dry…
HCC water rules: One unattended hose (sprinkler, irrigation system etc) every other day, 6-8am and 7-9pm. A hand-held hose anytime.
•I say to avoid evening watering. Wet plants overnight - disease.
Free tree chip: Mulch under trees to supress weed growth. To hold in soil water. To keep soil cool (day) and warm (night).
Cuttings: If on your summer holidays you see a friend’s pot plant or garden plant you fancy, it’s easy to take a stem cutting. •Keep it till you get home; •Sealed in a plastic bag (so it doesn't dry); •Out of the sun (so it doesn't cook).
Then plant it. It’ll soon grows roots and you’ll get an identical plant (a clone; same genes). All forestry pines and many garden-centre plants are raised from cuttings. But will your cutting grow roots?
Physiology: Growing shoots send hormonal signals down saying ‘we need roots’ and growing roots send hormonal signals up saying ‘we need leaves’. These two hormone flows ensure a balance between roots and shoots. A rootless shoot is desperate to grow roots…!
Rooting success depends on: •Species, •Time of year, •Stem age and •Method.
•Species - 100% success with hydrangeas. 80% success with grapes. Other species are less easy, so take several cuttings.
•Time - Early spring is best - but anytime will do…
•Stem age -Take a bit of stem about 8-12 months old (Older, and dormant buds don’t grow. Younger, and the stem hasn’t enough energy reserves).
•Method - You want a ‘3-node-cutting’. With sharp secateurs cut a length of stem with three nodes.
top node><internode><middle node><internode><bottom node
•Cut away half the leaf blade(s) at the top node (to conserve water).
•Cut away the leaf blades at the middle and bottom nodes (but leave the leaf stalks).
•There will be a dormant bud in the axil of each leaf stalk - don’t damage these buds.
•Plant your 3-node-cutting (the right way up) in a pot of moist potting mix. The top node in the air, the middle node just below the soil surface and the bottom node under the soil.
•After a few weeks, the dormant buds will break at the top and/or middle nodes and roots will grow from the middle and/or bottom nodes.
BUT: Your cutting will be very vulnerable to drying out until it grows roots.
•Put a plastic bag over the pot, sealed to the pot with a rubber band.
•Keep the soil moist but not standing in water.
•Place in bright light by a south window, but not in direct sun.
More? Google NCSU propagation ___________________________________